IMP Brass Nuts
IMP's (Immaculate Marginal Protection) are brass micro wires that have a regular taper. They are the ideal basis for any experienced leader's rack of micro gear. The heads are machined on a 9 axis CNC from a copper alloy that has specific properties and a carefully controlled hardness; when developing these nuts DMM gradually honed in on an alloy and a hardness that allowed good bite and resistance to shear forces. This way the nuts lock into the rock well and also resist being pulled through the placement.
The heads are silver soldered onto stainless steel wire, and every unit is proof loaded to 75% of its rated strength. Each one is consistent because these nuts were developed and built through a custom, induction heated silver soldering system that allows accurate control of the heat applied during the process. The wires have a colour coded alloy swage that is only dinked on one side (i.e. one wire runs free so that the head is always loaded optimally when it holds a fall). The colour swage helps with selecting the right size the first time.
Specs
- Micro protection lets you protect cracks which normal sized pieces would not fit
- Wires soldered directly into the heads for increased strength
- Brass heads for optimal characteristics in marginal placements
- Color coded for quick selection
- Unlike active protection such as cams, passive protection can be used in wet or icy cracks, where friction is reduced
| Size | Weight | Range | Strength | Color |
| 1 | 4 g | 4-5.6 mm | 4 kN | Blue |
| 2 | 8 g | 4.8-6.4 mm | 5 kN | Red |
| 3 | 10 g | 6.4-7.9 mm | 5 kN | Silver |
| 4 | 13 g | 7.9-9.5 mm | 7 kN | Purple |
| 5 | 16 g | 9.5-11.7 mm | 7 kN | Green |
IMP's (Immaculate Marginal Protection) are brass micro wires that have a regular taper. They are the ideal basis for any experienced leader's rack of micro gear. The heads are machined on a 9 axis CNC from a copper alloy that has specific properties and a carefully controlled hardness; when developing these nuts DMM gradually honed in on an alloy and a hardness that allowed good bite and resistance to shear forces. This way the nuts lock into the rock well and also resist being pulled through the placement.
The heads are silver soldered onto stainless steel wire, and every unit is proof loaded to 75% of its rated strength. Each one is consistent because these nuts were developed and built through a custom, induction heated silver soldering system that allows accurate control of the heat applied during the process. The wires have a colour coded alloy swage that is only dinked on one side (i.e. one wire runs free so that the head is always loaded optimally when it holds a fall). The colour swage helps with selecting the right size the first time.
Specs
- Micro protection lets you protect cracks which normal sized pieces would not fit
- Wires soldered directly into the heads for increased strength
- Brass heads for optimal characteristics in marginal placements
- Color coded for quick selection
- Unlike active protection such as cams, passive protection can be used in wet or icy cracks, where friction is reduced
| Size | Weight | Range | Strength | Color |
| 1 | 4 g | 4-5.6 mm | 4 kN | Blue |
| 2 | 8 g | 4.8-6.4 mm | 5 kN | Red |
| 3 | 10 g | 6.4-7.9 mm | 5 kN | Silver |
| 4 | 13 g | 7.9-9.5 mm | 7 kN | Purple |
| 5 | 16 g | 9.5-11.7 mm | 7 kN | Green |
Description
IMP's (Immaculate Marginal Protection) are brass micro wires that have a regular taper. They are the ideal basis for any experienced leader's rack of micro gear. The heads are machined on a 9 axis CNC from a copper alloy that has specific properties and a carefully controlled hardness; when developing these nuts DMM gradually honed in on an alloy and a hardness that allowed good bite and resistance to shear forces. This way the nuts lock into the rock well and also resist being pulled through the placement.
The heads are silver soldered onto stainless steel wire, and every unit is proof loaded to 75% of its rated strength. Each one is consistent because these nuts were developed and built through a custom, induction heated silver soldering system that allows accurate control of the heat applied during the process. The wires have a colour coded alloy swage that is only dinked on one side (i.e. one wire runs free so that the head is always loaded optimally when it holds a fall). The colour swage helps with selecting the right size the first time.
Specs
- Micro protection lets you protect cracks which normal sized pieces would not fit
- Wires soldered directly into the heads for increased strength
- Brass heads for optimal characteristics in marginal placements
- Color coded for quick selection
- Unlike active protection such as cams, passive protection can be used in wet or icy cracks, where friction is reduced
| Size | Weight | Range | Strength | Color |
| 1 | 4 g | 4-5.6 mm | 4 kN | Blue |
| 2 | 8 g | 4.8-6.4 mm | 5 kN | Red |
| 3 | 10 g | 6.4-7.9 mm | 5 kN | Silver |
| 4 | 13 g | 7.9-9.5 mm | 7 kN | Purple |
| 5 | 16 g | 9.5-11.7 mm | 7 kN | Green |
